Tagine, a North African stew, is distinguished by the conical, earthenware pot in which it is cooked. The heavy cone-shaped lid helps trap steam so moisture trickles back down into the stew.
According to award-winning cookbook author Paula Wolfert, who helped introduce Americans to Moroccan food, tagines begin with a “cold start.” Instead of browning the meat and aromatics on the stovetop to create a fond before adding the liquid to make the sauce, the tagine starts all the ingredients together.
The cold start allows the flavors to fully infuse the meat as it cooks slowly for a long time. This method springs from a time when cooks brought pots of stews to a town’s communal oven. It saves time and some fuss; no messy spattering of grease and no skillet to clean after browning the meat. The resulting flavors are gentle and less robust, the spices mellow and subtle.
No need for the tagine pot; a Dutch oven or any pot with a tightfitting lid will work well. The best meat for this is lamb or goat — shoulder, leg or neck fillet with muscle and some fat that will break down and turn tender during the slow cooking. These are economical boneless cuts. Saddle, rack and chops are better suited to roasting. Typically spiced with cinnamon, turmeric, ginger and cumin and sweetened with dried apricots, this recipe gets a lift from lemon.
A tagine fills kitchen with exotic aromas as the meat turns fork-tender and the juices become velvety and rich. It’s served over mounds of fluffy couscous to sop up all the goodness. This warming, one-pot meal is as essential as my favorite sweater, a winter recipe I’ve come to rely on all season long.
Lamb Tagine
Serves 4 to 6.
2 lb. bone-in lamb shoulder, leg or neck fillet, cut into 1 1/2-in. pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 c. dried apricots
1 1/2 c. lamb or chicken stock
1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 small cinnamon sticks
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp. ground turmeric
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
Generous pinch grated nutmeg
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1/4 c. chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 c. chopped parsley
Couscous, for serving (see recipe)
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
In a medium bowl, season the lamb with a little salt and pepper.
Put the apricots and stock into a small pot, bring to a boil, turn off the heat and allow to come to room temperature to plump the apricots.
Put the lamb, apricots and stock, oil, onion, cinnamon sticks, ginger, turmeric, cumin, pepper, and nutmeg into a pot or casserole. Cover the pot with foil and then its lid, and cook in the oven until the lamb is very tender, turning the meat occasionally, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Remove, stir in the lemon juice, taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve over couscous garnished with the cilantro and parsley.
Couscous
Serves 4 to 6.
1 1/2 c. chicken stock
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 1/2 c. couscous
1/2 tsp. lemon zest
Put the stock, oil and a pinch of salt and pepper into a medium saucepan. Set over high heat and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat, stir in the couscous, cover and let it sit until all the liquid is absorbed, about 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork and then fluff in the lemon zest.
Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.”