Baklava is just right this time of year, when we’ve eaten our fill of holiday candies and cookies, but are still craving something sweet. Chock-full of nuts and laced with aromatics and honey, this iconic pastry of Greece, Turkey and the Balkans is satisfying without being cloying. It’s a treat that’s just as good with morning coffee as it is with a dollop of whipped cream for dessert.
I’m not much of a baker, so I’m always seeking hacks. The other day, I landed on this shortcut recipe for baklava by chef Einat Admony, featured in the 2018 cookbook “Food52 Genius Desserts: 100 Recipes That Will Change the Way You Bake.” Instead of being layered in a pan, the pastry is rolled up around the nut filling, then sliced into discs like cinnamon rolls. Drizzled with orange- and cardamom-infused honey syrup, it emerges shatteringly crisp and gooey while the roasty flavor of the nuts shines through.
Though the process may seem time-consuming, it’s really not fussy. I find the repetitive task of brushing the layers of phyllo with butter to be meditative and the results well worth the effort. Plus, baklava is delicious straight from the oven and will taste just fine the next day or even a couple of days after it’s baked.
While any kind of nut will work — pistachios, walnuts, pecans — our locally grown hazelnuts from the American Hazelnut Co. really shine here. They’re smaller than the larger filberts from Oregon or Turkey and have a deeper, more robust flavor. Because they’re roasted before being packaged, there’s no need to toast them to remove the bitter pith before using.
Pinwheel baklava is just as finger-licking sticky and luscious as the traditional version, plus it’s easier to serve.
Baklava Pinwheels
Makes about 24 pieces.
Note: Be sure to fully thaw the phyllo in the refrigerator and to chill the syrup in advance of pouring it on top of the pastry when you pull it hot from the oven. This step allows the baklava to fully absorb all the honeyed goodness. Once the phyllo has thawed, remove any you don’t need for the recipe, reroll, wrap in plastic and refreeze up to 2 months. Find local hazelnuts through the American Hazelnut Co. ( americanhazelnutcompany.com), a collective of Midwest hazelnut farmers. From Beth Dooley.
For the syrup:
1 c. granulated sugar
1/2 c. water
3 tbsp. honey
1 (2-in.) strip orange zest
1 whole cardamom pod
For the baklava pinwheels:
12 oz. toasted hazelnuts, pistachios, walnuts or pecans
1/4 c. powdered sugar
Generous pinch ground cardamom
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 lb. (1/2 package) frozen phyllo dough, thawed (see Note)
1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
To make the syrup: In a saucepan, combine the sugar, water, honey, orange zest and cardamom. Set over low heat and bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar has dissolved, about 5 to 8 minutes.
Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Pour into an airtight container, cover and refrigerate until chilled, or overnight.
To make the baklava pinwheels: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a food processor, pulse the nuts with the powdered sugar, cardamom and cinnamon, until ground.
Lay 3 sheets of the phyllo dough on a flat surface, stacked on top of one another, with one of the short sides close to you. As you work, cover the remaining sheets with a damp kitchen towel to keep them from drying out.
Generously brush the top layer of phyllo with butter. Spread some of the nut mixture on the phyllo and pack it down. Roll the 3 phyllo sheets together away from you to form a log. Repeat with the remaining phyllo dough and nut mixture. Place the rolls seam-side down on a baking sheet or flat pan and place in the freezer for about 12 minutes; this makes them easier to cut.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove phyllo logs from the freezer. Set the rolls on a cutting board; using a serrated knife, cut them into 2-inch slices. Arrange the slices cut-side up and spaced apart on the parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes.
Remove from the oven and while still warm, transfer the baklava and arrange cut-side up, snugly, in a serving dish. Discard the orange zest and cardamom pod from the syrup and pour over the baklava. Allow to cool completely before serving. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week or freeze for up to 1 month.
Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.”