Like a good summer movie, a great sandwich should be full of delightful familiar ingredients sparked with a few good surprises. And like a good plot, the sandwich should be built on a sturdy foundation.
But first, let’s agree on the definition of a sandwich as opposed to a hamburger, hot dog, taco, wrap, empanada or burrito. To quote the Merriam-Webster dictionary, “a sandwich consists of two or more slices of bread or split roll having a filling in between.” (Open-faced sandwiches are a whole different category, and they deserve a story of their own.)
There are few rules to govern sandwich fillings, but it’s clear that the foundation must be very good bread. Thanks to our local artisan bakeries, there are now plenty of great options. As with all local foods, the best tasting bread is created with local flour milled fresh. Here are a few classic combos built on our bakeries’ best.
The bread
Rye bread: The dark, dense malty Hundred Rye Bread from Baker’s Field Flour & Bread is the perfect platform for my hometown hero: the New Jersey Joe. The triple-decker beauty layers turkey, Swiss cheese, roast beef and coleslaw, slathered with Russian dressing on three layers of thinly sliced rye. It’s the sandwich of birthday parties and reunions, a specialty of the Millburn Deli, and the first thing I eat when back home. Rye bread is a great match for smoked meats.
Multigrain bread: Toasty, nutty, whole-grain slices match the flavorful plant-based filling of a classic California Avocado and begs the question: How can something that tastes so good be good for you? Fat wedges of avocado, fistfuls of sprouts and thick slices of tomato are all married with rough, garlicky lemon hummus. Hearty and healthy, this is the bread for veggie-based creations.
Baguette: Filling the traditionally light, crusty French baguette with bold Vietnamese flavors is an elegant and innovative pairing. While the version in today’s recipe doesn’t pretend to be an authentic bánh mì — pickled vegetables, daikon-carrot slaw, cucumbers and seasoned meat (i.e. rotisserie chicken), hot peppers and fish sauce — it is a mouth-tingling and faster version of the classic with ingredients that are easy to find. Baguette and crusty rolls work beautifully with drippy, bountiful fillings.
White bread: Soft, slightly sweet white bread griddled to golden perfection is the key to a great Cubano. The iconic sandwich of Florida is a hefty variation of the ham and grilled cheese with a layer of pulled pork and lots of personality. Pickles add a punchy counterpoint to the melty Swiss cheese and mustardy-mayo. Of course the definition of a Cubano lies in the hands of its maker — some add salami to the equation, too.
Key ingredients
Often the best sandwiches are last-minute inventions sparked by hunger and whatever is at hand — crisp chips, tangy-salty kimchi, hot sauce, a lick of bright berry jam. But with a little planning, you can have the key ingredients on hand to create the iconic sandwiches: Coleslaw and Russian dressing for New Jersey Joes, Garlicky-Lemon Hummus for California Avocado sandwiches, Quick Daikon-Carrot Pickle for bánh mì and Tangy Mustardy Mayo for the Cubano.
None of these examples is meant to dissuade you from creating the sandwich of your summer dreams. Be bold and savor the flavor and the joy of eating a meal with your hands.
Coleslaw
Serves about 4.
Make this just a few hours ahead of time so that the flavors marry. Don’t hesitate to toss in your favorite chopped herbs — basil, parsley, thyme, etc. From Beth Dooley.
½ c. mayonnaise
2 tsp. apple cider vinegar
Pinch sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 small head green cabbage (about 1 ¼ to 1 ½ lb.), cored and shredded
1 carrot, shredded
In a medium bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, vinegar and sugar, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the cabbage and carrot and toss until the ingredients are well coated (use your hands for best results).
Russian Dressing
Makes about 3/4 cup.
Though similar to Thousand Island dressing, this is spicier and not as sweet. From Beth Dooley.
3 tbsp. ketchup or chili sauce
1 tbsp. chopped shallot
1 tsp. prepared horseradish, to taste
½ c. mayonnaise
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Put all of the ingredients into a small bowl and whisk to combine. Taste and adjust the seasonings.
Make it a New Jersey Joe: The order of the popular triple-decker sandwich is: bottom slice of thinly sliced rye, turkey or roast beef, coleslaw, Russian dressing, Swiss cheese, middle slice of rye, turkey or roast beef, coleslaw, Russian dressing, Swiss cheese and top slice of rye.
Garlicky-Lemon Hummus
Makes 2 cups.
You’ll end up with more than you’ll need for a sandwich, so save the extra for dipping chips and veggies. This speedy version comes together in minutes. From Beth Dooley.
2 cloves garlic
1 tsp. lemon zest
2 to 3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, to taste
1 c. tahini
Generous pinch coarse salt
1 tsp. ground cumin
½ c. ice water, plus more as needed
1 (15-oz.) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, pulse together the garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, tahini, salt, cumin and water. Add the chickpeas and process until the mixture is smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings and add more water if needed to reach desired consistency.
Make it a California Avocado: Between thick slices of multigrain bread, layer wedges of avocado, sprouts and the garlicky-lemon hummus.
Quick Daikon-Carrot Pickle
Makes about 3 cups.
A quick, simple pickle brightens a range of sandwiches from bánh mì to the all-American BLT. It will keep in a covered container in the refrigerator for about 3 weeks.
1 large carrot, cut into matchstick-size pieces
1 lb. daikon radish, cut into matchstick-size pieces
¼ c. sugar
½ c. water
1 c. rice wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Put the carrot and daikon slices into a glass container. In a small saucepan, stir together the sugar, water, vinegar and a pinch of salt and pepper and set over low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cool slightly and pour over the vegetables. Allow the vegetables to marinate at least 1 hour before using or refrigerate for up to 3 weeks. Drain the vegetables from the pickling juices before using in a bánh mì or other sandwich.
Make it a bánh mì: While not authentic by any means, get the idea of the traditional sandwich by filling a crusty baguette with pickled daikon-carrot slaw, cucumbers, rotisserie chicken, hot peppers with a drizzle of fish sauce.
Tangy Mustardy Mayo
Makes about 2/3 cup.
Sandwich pairing: The Cubano, that delicious, drippy variation on a grilled ham and cheese with a bump of pulled pork, relies on a tangy mustardy-mayo sauce to pull together the honey-kissed ham, mild creamy Swiss cheese and punchy pickles. You may end up with more sauce than needed, but it keeps in a covered container in the refrigerator for at least 2 weeks.
½ c. good mayonnaise, such as Duke’s or Hellman’s
2 tbsp. yellow mustard
1 tbsp. dill pickle juice
1 tsp. honey, optional
Put all the ingredients into a small bowl and whisk together.
Make it a Cubano: Slather the tangy mustardy mayo on the inside of sliced white bread before adding ham, Swiss cheese, pulled pork and pickles.