My story begins 12,000 years ago with the arrival of humans on the South American continent. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
More recently, I experienced the joy of discovery in Peru. Among my many discoveries was the giant metropolis of Lima. This modern city’s population is between 10 and 14 million, depending on your source. Its boundaries may be uncertain. Regardless of which number you pick, it is huge and sprawling. Like New York and London, Lima is divided into districts, each with a mayor and legislative body. It’s a dizzying amalgam of cultures. For example, you will find an ancient temple in the heart of the present-day district of Miraflores.
Our tour group assembled for a breakfast orientation briefing from a local history professor the morning of our first full day in Peru. We learned that the history of Indigenous cultures in Peru is a rich and complex tapestry stretching back thousands of years, well before the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century. Human presence in Peru dates back more than 12,000 years. The Caral-Supe civilization (c. 3000–1800 BCE) is one of the oldest known civilizations in the Americas.
The Colonial Period (1532 onwards) began with conquistador Francisco Pizarro’s capture of Inca emperor Atahualpa in Cajamarca. Despite resistance, the Spanish established colonial rule. Indigenous people were subjected to forced labor and conversion to Christianity. Nevertheless, indigenous languages and customs persisted, especially in rural, highland areas. Indigenous identity remains a vital part of Peruvian culture. Quechua and Aymara are still widely spoken. Traditional Andean festivals, music, dress and spirituality endure.
From our hotel in the Miraflores District of Lima, we set out for the Lima Pier, then on to Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Columbian temple in the center of Miraflores. This massive pyramid is built of adobe brick. We visited Lima’s central plaza, which is surrounded by the capitol building, The Government Palace which is the official residence of the president of Peru, and St. John’s Cathedral which contains the crypt of Fernando Pizarro, the conquistador. The Peruvians I met resent the crypt’s presence because, while they are good Catholics, they are also indigenous and therefore proud of their heritage. Strolling through the streets, we were surprised to observe Moorish-influenced architecture, characterized by enclosed balconies designed to allow Moorish women to people watch from behind louvered windows.
We flew to Cuzco, altitude 12,000 feet, then bused to Urubamba, altitude 9,000 feet. to continue our examination of Peru’s ecosystem, a breathtaking patchwork of cloud forest, mountain, desert and seashore, supporting a stunning array of life. It’s a land that jaguars, condors, and penguins all share. On the plateau above Urubamba we visited the Marasal Salt Flats where salt is harvested from artesian saltwater wells. At nearby Mara, we met with a professor of agriculture and learned that Peru produces about 4,000 varieties of potatoes and more than 50 varieties of corn.
We boarded the train at Hiram Brigham Station for a trip to the village of Aguas Calientes, which is near Machu Picchu, sometimes spelled Machupicchu. This amazing city is built on a steep mountainside. It is an engineering marvel built of stones cut so precisely that no mortar was needed to hold them together, even through earthquakes. Two stone mountains dominate the scene on opposite sides of the city. Archeologists speculate that their alignment was used to identify the summer and winter solstices. Machu Picchu’s exact purpose remains a subject of ongoing research, but its multifaceted role highlights its importance in Inca society. Speculation among scholars includes uses such as a royal estate, a ceremonial center and an astronomical observatory.
Before we flew back to Lima, we spent a day in Cusco, where we visited a cloistered church that is built on the foundation of the Temple of the Sun. Our guides, although they are practicing Catholics, refer to the church as the Temple of the Sun. A painting of the Last Supper in the church depicts Jesus eating a Guinea pig, which is a ubiquitous delicacy.
And so, 12,000 years later, I caught a plane in Lima and flew back home.