I’m two years into my writing these columns and I realize — too late — that I should have presented them to you chronologically: “Kathy’s adventures/the early years” etc.
But it is too late for that. Therefore, I will transport you back to my 50th birthday.
I’d started “serious” (meaning addictive) hiking just a few years before I turned 50. I met women in the hiking club who loved being outside and exploring new heights (ha, ha). I asked three if they would do something exciting and special to celebrate my 50th. Each brought some ideas to our “summit” planning session. The oldest and most experienced traveler and hiker jumped right in by saying, “Put your ideas away! We’re doing the Tour du Mt. Blanc! This is the only hike I would consider doing twice!”
She had pictures and laid out the scope of the trip. And she had the now famous 1977 guide book “Tour of Mont Blanc” by Andrew Harper. The tour is a 126-mile, circular hike around the steep slopes of Mont Blanc, going through France, Italy and Switzerland.
We laid out our plan. We would hike for 10 days, completing the entire circle, beginning and ending in Les Houches, France.
Now people hire someone to book their lodging and transport luggage to the next destination. This is necessary because of the many, many hikers who do the circular each summer. When we did it, we flew to Geneva, hopped on a bus to Les Houches, and found a little B&B near the trail. We carried everything we brought with us (about 30 pounds), which was next to nothing: rain gear, map, Harper book, toothbrush, socks, underwear and a change of clothes.
This way we had room to stick a delicious baguette and some magnificently smelly cheese into our packs each day!
Day 1 was Les Houches to les Contamine , only 8 miles, it sounded easy. Ha! Elevation going up was 2,200 feet and down was 4,000 feet. We started by taking a teleforique up, then walking to Miage glacier and on up to Col de Tricot, which was full of sheep and flowers. A little building offered omelettes and salad vertes (green salad), beer or tea and there were a few bunks. No other “civilization” here. The views are smashing! It was wonderful to walk down and into the lovely little town, find lodging, eat incredible food, and sleep like a rock.
Day 2 was the hardest day for me, and Harper warns readers to “get an early start!”
Still in France, we left Les Contamine by walking out of town to Notre dame de la Gorge. Villagers were running the cattle up to pasture. This path is some 2,000 years old and is believed to be the link between the Roman Empire and Gaul. It opened into breathtaking views of our day’s destination.
Cattle bells tingle. We make our way up to the Col du Bonhomme, which is open and exposed. We begin meeting other hikers along the way: three French men and two British couples. Even now, we continue to stay in touch with the Brits. From the col our view is of the Refuge Croix du Bonhomme (my favorite), nestled in nothing but high mountains. It will take us another hour to get there.
What a reward! Hot showers, bunks, wine beef burgonyonne and great company! It can house about 70. That day was nearly 5,000 ft elevation gain with no descent; up for 10 miles and 10 hours. Before leaving the next morning we walked up about an hour to Tete de Fours for views of the Matterhorn (50 miles away) and Mt. Rosa on the Italian-Swiss border. Breathtaking in more ways than one!
I’ll not take you through all 10 days, but just some fun highlights. We’d wanted to stay in the Elizabetta Refuge just over into Italy, but it was full so we went only as far as Motets. Should you ever have occasion to stay there, DON’T, though it was an experience! I call it the roach motel because we were packed in with 30 strangers, sleeping bag next to sleeping bag.
The hike down to Motets was very steep and with snow. We used garbage bags and slid. When we got there, our new British and French friends were waiting for us so they could toast us as it was July 4!
So, you ask, how do you know when you cross into another country? On Day 4 we walked from France into Italy. The Italian flag is painted on a rock along the trail!
Day 5 I call the “DAY OF FEAR AND TERROR!” Up 4,185 ft and down 3,000 — 11 miles. From Monte de la Sax were stupendous views across the gorge on to the glacier Mt. Blanc massif, Tete de Bernard and Treche. The trail is along a ridge so steep on either side and so so narrow, I could not look down.
At times I squatted down and held on to grass with the hope that it would somehow keep me from plummeting down the slope clear back to Courmayeur!
I’ve controlled myself from going on and on about the food. Suffice to say that the bread with fresh red raspberry jam was to die for! The day we crossed into Switzerland, we did 12 miles: up 3,000 and down 3,000. The following day was easier, though no less beautiful. We woke to the bells of cattle being driven up into the mountains. What a beautiful sound and it would greet us throughout the day’s hike.
Lac Champex, our destination, is entered by passing a belangerie where I salivated over raspberry tarts! I will never forget them. Nor will I forget the Hotel Belvedere! Huge fluffy feather mattresses and coverlets, cheese fondue, wine to die for and huge raspberries with thick cream!
The small ski town of Argentiere is lovely. We had racklette for dinner and more delicious desserts. This was our base for hiking the Gran Balcon. Views are of Aieguille du Midi and the Bossons glacier. The sun was intense at this altitude. The trail is narrow and care is taken when passing hikers coming from the other direction.
We took the teleforique back down to where we started — Les Houches. This circuit is a world class feast for the eyes and stomach!