Over the years I’ve travelled afar — saving Alaska and Canada for last. I’m guessing I figured I would walk and hike the big or difficult places first.
Well, I waited too long. Here’s why: as part of my year-long celebration of turning 80, my son and I booked a trip to LeConte Bay, Wrangell and Misty Fjords in southwest Alaska. While I knew academically that this trip would hit only a small part of Alaska, I just didn’t realize just what an understatement that is.
The flight into Juneau was spectacular! (I understand there is no route into Juneau by road.) I jumped into the first and only cab for a ride into the city. Sometimes I just luck out! I love surprises like this — my driver was Cuban. Came to Alaska in the ‘50s and loves it. He had no other riders, so he invited me to the front of the van, where he pointed out bald eagles on every single light pole along the highway. There is water on the right and grassy woods on the left. We were not half way into town (which is not a long ride at all) when he just stopped so that I could enjoy watching two young black bears practicing their climbing ability. And he told me about the city and how it is much bigger than it looks.
Sean was waiting for me and eager to show me around. (He’d flown in from California and was fresh as a daisy. I was not.). I’m guessing it took us about an hour to walk around the main part of Juneau. Downtown Juneau felt smaller than Oneonta. We wanted to eat but no place was open. We were told that most places don’t open on Sunday unless the “big ships” are in town. We soon found that to be true. These cruise ships that could dock right in downtown Juneau carried thousands of tourists!
We walked to the state capital. Looked just a tad bigger than the Delaware County Office Building and was on a little street in town, on a steep hill. Picturesque, but I wondered about parking, and walking in the winter.
This is why I like traveling: one sees that there are a zillion different ways to do things — to run governments, to live.
The major surprise for me was the Alaska State Museum. The exhibits are spellbinding. The art and daily lives of the indigenous peoples who lived and now live here are displayed beautifully. I like museums, but often lose focus after an hour or more. I spent hours there and even came back the next morning before boarding.
I’ll not give you the day to day itinerary. Unlike my hiking trips, when I know exactly where I am at all times, here on the water I simply soaked up the views. We boarded the National Geographic Sea Lion and headed for LeConte and Thomas Bay. LeConte Glacier is one of the most active glaciers in Southeast Alaska and the southernmost tidewater glacier in the northern hemisphere. Our small vessel could go close to the glacier and we quickly jumped into Zodiac rafts to get even closer.
Glaciers, birds, occasionally a bear or sitka deer, whales.
Kayaking in the morning and riding in the zodiac in the afternoon. I am just beginning to truly grasp the expanse of wilderness, water and ice.
We cruised down Stephen’s Passage to Endicott Arm to make our way toward Dawes Glacier. The fjord itself is 32 miles in length. We are so very close to the dramatic mountains on either side of us. It increases the awe. The Stikine ice field is visible and beautiful. The expanse beyond to the east is Tracy Arm-Ford’s Terror Wilderness. It is enormous.
The small town of Wrangell is home to the Tlingit peoples, who have lived here for centuries. We could choose which outing to do each day. My son and I selected the river excursion up the Stikine River, the fastest free-flowing navigable river in North America and the largest river in Southeast Alaska. (Please get out your maps of Alaska and Canada and see how very, very long this river is.) From northern Canada it flows nearly 400 miles and empties into various straits.
Our ride took us only as far as the Canadian border (and we were on the boat for nearly 3 hours). What is amazing about this river, and actually everyplace on and adjoining the sea, is that massive tides dictate everyday life and work. The captain of our small vessel said he was born and raised in Wrangell. He knows the waters well.
There were sand flats full of birds coming north to reproduce. The difference in water level between the time that we started upstream vs. our trip back could be up to 24 feet! This part of our trip was my absolute favorite. Wildlife (moose, deer, fish, ducks …) abounded. There is nothing out there but wilderness. A few small homes.
How, you ask, do I know where the Alaska/Canada border is? There is a small area of clear cut, about 6 to 10 feet wide, running through the forest both east and west on either side of the river. No customs. No duty free shop. Nothing but more trees.
Our last full day was in Misty Fjords National Monument. Established by President Jimmy Carter in 1978, the towering granite cliffs were carved by glaciers more than 17,000 years ago. This area is 3,570 square miles of largely untouched shoreline and backcountry with ice fields, glaciers and mountains,
We saw three rivers and hundreds of small streams. Roads and any permanent structures are prohibited in almost all of this monument. Rainfall here averages a half-inch inch each day.
I consider myself so very fortunate to have been able to see what is called God’s Pocket and to kayak there. Again, steep cliffs with waterfalls and beautiful vegetation. We watched an Alaskan brown bear with two cubs on the nearby shore. From a kayak! Can you believe that? A fitting end to this cruise. Sean and I just kept shaking our heads incredulously.
We disembarked in Ketchikan. What a place. Another tiny tourist place, it sits at the base of the Revillagigedo Island. Called both the salmon capital or rain capital of Alaska, it was much more interesting than I expected. The Totem Heritage Center taught how these beautiful Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian cultural artworks are made. Downtown shops are in what once were brothels. Plus, it is the only airport I’ve ever been to via a short ferry ride.
I’ve left Alaska to the end of my many years of travel. The problem is, I now realize that I saw about 1% of the entire state! So now I just want to go back — and work my way north!