“Americans just do not know how to cook green beans,” said Ann, a Bayfield Farmers Market vendor, as she handed me a sack of deep green, plump beans she picked earlier that morning.
“When they’re underdone and too crisp, they just don’t have much taste. Give them a few minutes more time when you boil them. They’re tender but still firm. The little beans within the green bean [the seed] will cook, too.”
Having grown up on limp, soggy, overcooked beans, I was reluctant to try this technique. I got the water boiling, dropped the beans, watched the pot and when they turned a bright green, drained them and refreshed under cold running water. They were pliable but no longer snapped back. After I drizzled the beans with a little good olive oil and sprinkled with coarse salt, they were so finger-licking good I nearly polished off the entire lot. The baby bean inside the green bean added a gentle creaminess. Cooked this way, the beans were milder and less harsh — more of themselves.
I turned what was left of those beans into a bowl, added a few cooked new potatoes from last night’s dinner and a little prosciutto for body, tossed the whole thing in a bold vinaigrette and topped it off with thinly sliced radishes to add a peppery snap. If I had cherry tomatoes, corn or cucumbers at the ready, they’d make fine additions, too.
Given summer’s heat, this all-veggie combo makes a satisfying alternative to a chilled main dish pasta salad, plus it can be made ahead. Serve with a hunk of toothy rustic bread and save what’s left for a fine lunch.
Follow this light, healthy dinner with a scoop of ice cream for dessert … no guilt!
Big Green Bean Salad
Serves 4
Inspired by the classic French bean salads, this relies on a bold vinaigrette loaded with garlic and capers. Toss in potatoes and whatever summer vegetables you happen to have on hand — tomatoes, corn, cucumbers. You can make the whole thing in advance to allow the flavors to marry. Serve chilled or at room temperature with a hunk of crusty bread. From Beth Dooley.
1 lb. new potatoes (see Tip)
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1 tbsp. chopped capers
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
¼ c. white wine vinegar
1/3 c. extra-virgin olive oil
2 lb. green beans, trimmed
2 slices prosciutto, cut into thick pieces, optional
1 tbsp. chopped thyme, plus more for garnish
2 tbsp. chopped parsley, plus more for garnish
2 tbsp. chopped basil, plus more for garnish
¼ c. sliced radishes
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook at a brisk simmer until easily pierced, about 25 minutes. Drain.
In a small bowl, whisk together the garlic, capers, mustard and vinegar. Add the oil and whisk until emulsified.
When the potatoes are just cool enough to handle, slice into ¼-inch chunks and transfer to a large bowl. Add half of the vinaigrette while the potatoes are still warm.
In a large pot of rapidly boiling water, cook the beans until they turn bright green, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a colander and drain; rinse under cold water. Cut into ½-inch pieces and transfer to the bowl with the potatoes. Add the prosciutto and toss with enough of the dressing to coat the beans. Add the herbs and top with the radishes. Garnish with any leftover dressing and more herbs.
Tip: If you have leftover cooked potatoes, slice them and add them to the beans with the prosciutto.
Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.