HAVERHILL — Hungry customers leave the booths of a cherished eatery with teary eyes after learning that the sizzling sounds of bacon and the buzz of conversation will soon come to a halt.
For nearly half a century, A-1 Deli has graced downtown Haverhill with hearty servings through the breakfast, lunch, and dinner rushes. Over the years, the restaurant, owned by brothers Bobby, 71, and Tony, 69, Meidanis, became a staple in the community, feeding generations of customers.
But, the regulars are indulging in their last dishes as the beloved brotherly business is on its last legs, closing up shop by the end of March.
The deli at 92 Merrimack St., is known for its affordable plates of anything a customer could have an appetite for. From blueberry pancakes, to roast beef sandwiches, to chicken piccata, their cooks do it all, including Greek delicacies like baklava and spanakopita.
The menu hangs overhead a kitchen of busy-bodied chefs whose culinary passions lay in the frying pans at A-1 Deli. There’s such a wide range of cuisine offered that the menu nearly extends into the neighbor’s property.
Running the restaurant was a three-headed beast, when the deli, cafe, and function room were all in operation.
Folks still gather in the deli, where the liveliness of the open kitchen coexists with the hum of friendly exchanges between customers.
“Hey, that steak,” one customer said while addressing the cooks, “that was cooked to perfection!”
Diners of all ages line up before the countertop, ready to order, gazing at the deli’s assortment of meats: chicken, lamb, beef, pork, veal, and so on. Autographed photos of politicians and vintage decor adorn the walls, proof that the restaurant has stood the test of time.
The café side of A-1 Deli once served as an upscale environment for lunch and dinner, with a bar at its backend, before it was closed due to the pandemic.
Upstairs is the function room, where parties of up to 65 people would celebrate birthdays, holidays, and any excuse for a party as the crew at A-1 Deli were happy to host. Nowadays, the room is rented out for additional income.
The Meidanis family decided to close down all of the restaurant’s operations amid rising health complications between the brothers in charge. Bobby Meidanis was diagnosed with multiple myeloma, a type of blood cancer, last year. In the early stages, he continued whipping up dishes, since he was known as both an owner and a legendary chef. But he can no longer work the fryers as he used to since his health has kept him at home.
“He says he doesn’t miss the work,” his wife said. “But he sure misses the people.”
Tony suffers from some mobility issues, but that hasn’t killed his spirits as he moseys around the restaurant, taking orders on crutches.
The brothers immigrated from Greece in the late 1960s, working alongside their father, John Meidanis at the previous family restaurant, Mayflower Diner in Quincy. In 1980, his sons would travel to Haverhill, where they would purchase this property on Merrimack Street for $25,000.
Meidanis’ wife said that the family began looking for the next property owner not long after the diagnosis and eventually found a taker. L’Arche Boston North, a non-profit organization serving adults with intellectual disabilities, recently purchased the building. The organization runs a Culinary Collaborative Program where members learn cooking skills and serve meals to the community.
She said the organization may use the kitchen space to further its mission, which puts a positive spin on A-1 Deli moving out.
The restaurant’s closing marks the end of an era, or some might say multiple eras as the eatery would’ve reached a 45th anniversary in May.
“They’re gonna miss us,” Don Durgin, a seasoned chef who has worked there since 1990, said. “There’s never gonna be another place like this.”
And that is putting it lightly as Meidanis’ wife claimed many customers broke into tears when learning they’d be closing later this month.
“Someone could walk in without a dollar,” said George Murphy, a longtime friend and customer, “and they’d leave well fed and a friend of the owners.”
Sitting in one booth was a pair of regulars, Albert and Brenda Crepeau, a couple who have been dining there for about two decades.
“It’s not like you’re going out to eat here,” Crepeau said with a laugh. “It’s more like a therapy session.”
Nowadays, the two of them hit the deli at least five times a week, they said. The Crepeaus said there is a host of fond memories that took place between the restaurant’s walls, recalling the owner’s kind-heartedness to people across the city.
Albert Crepeau said Meidanis’ wife used to deliver free plates of food to homeless folks who’d camp out in the parking deck across the street before it was demolished. She’d hand out free cups of joe to men and women standing out in the cold to a point where she became known as “the coffee lady,” he said.
“It’s a home here,” Paula Meidanis, Bobby’s wife, said. “It’s a very friendly atmosphere and our customers aren’t customers; they’re family.”
There’s no such thing as a stranger at A-1 Deli. With one step through the doorway, the staff and diners will treat anyone like a relative.
After more than four decades of business in downtown Haverhill, all the friendly faces at the restaurant count down the days until the “CLOSED” sign turns for good.