It is March 6 as I begin writing about my adventure to Patagonia. And I realize that March 6, 2018, was the day I left for Chile.
Five years ago! How the world has changed since then.
It is not easy to get to the end of Chile from Delhi. First to Newark, then Miami, then Santiago. Then, 2,000 miles south down the spine of the Andes, all the way to Punta Arenas, on the Strait of Magellan. I met up with some of the American gals I’d hiked with for years: Barb, from the Appalachin Trail and Deb from the John Muir Trail. We took a pre-trip boat excursion to Magdalena Island where we saw more than 100 Magellanic penguins, plus crested ducks and upland geese. Also Magellanes Reserve Nacional Park for a nature and bird walk in a rain forest area. Then to replicas of Magellan’s ship. I was free to explore the ship and to marvel at how very small it is. I cannot imagine how the crew could all have fit! The bunks were so short, and the waves so tall!
Our group of women included five from Canada and five of us from the U.S., and one lone Kiwi (New Zealander). You’ll hear more in my next column about Ruth who hosted me in New Zealand. We piled into a van and drove north through amazing country: Pampa, rolling hills, sheep, cowboys and the birds! Imperial cormorants, white chinned petrels, caracara, Astra thrush, “blood bird”, harriers; the bird parade continued as we headed toward the Eco Camp. Our guide, Catarina, and the van driver, Pablo, who is also a photographer, pointed out more birds: flamingos, rhea, bareduria, southern caracara, geese, ducks.
How do I describe describe Eco Camp, our home base? Greenish canvas yurts, the snazzy kind. There were probably 50 of them with wooden walkways from one to another and to the dining hall and bathroom. This is a well thought out facility with low environmental impact. Great sleeping … and the stars! There were well-placed plastic windows for viewing! My first real experience with a deep southern sky.
Day 1: We hiked for eight hours, 2,410 feet elevation gain, and 2,350 feet down. And that was our “warm up day!” The destination was a refuge with a wood stove and small dining area. We welcomed the stove as it was 40 and wet and we’d crossed several streams. On this and all of the hikes I wore rain gear; waterproof socks and boots, 3 layers of shirts — fleece or wool, gortex jacket and double gloves.
We started up the French Valley by the huge glacier Frances. Along the highlands, our guide cautioned us that wind gusts could be extremely high. We practiced dropping to the ground on her signal. After 10 hours (up 2,150 feet and down 2,660 feet) we arrived at the Refugio Paine Grande on Lake Phehol. At dusk we watched a fox hunting upland geese.
The next day was extraordinary. Five unhurried hours of a lovely walk with lovely weather. I saw a pygmy owl. Lake Grey was our destination, a jaw-dropping site! We got a kayak briefing and wet suits that were fleece-lined.
Lake Grey! The glacier and ice field that we had seen from the plane window, the third largest in the world. The icebergs in the lake are blue, as is the edge of the glacier. We paddled around for more than two hours. I let it all soak in. It was thrilling!
A rest day was scheduled next, but staff offered a deal we couldn’t resist. I always figure I can rest at home! Four of us — one Canadian, the New Zealander, and two of us Yankees — jumped for the chance to have a nature walk. And what a good decision that was! Pablo, our driver, is well versed on birds, flora, fauna, and is also a photographer. Both of the fun guides, Catalina and Marianna, came too. We walked through open grassland, examining scat and observing guanaco (similar to llamas) and their young, plus a lively family of Chilean gray foxes. The guanaco always have a sentry posted atop the highest hill, keeping watch for pumas. A small lake hosted black-headed swans, coots and a black-chested buzzard eagle. We climbed to an overhang of conglomerate with thousand-plus year old cave paintings by indigenous peoples: a condor, hand print and puma — very moving. Pablo offered to drive to a common puma hang out. Almost immediately we spotted a male, relaxing by a recent kill, and then a female. Southern caracaras zipped in to eat. The male puma pounced to chase them away. The male and female interacted — rubbing noses, playing, perhaps a mating dance? What a gift to see this! (PBS and Netflix has footage of this same area with probably the same pumas. And yes, I cry when I watch it.)
Our day hikes had been 1,000 to 2,600-plus feet elevation. Some took five hours, only one took 10. But now, the famous Torres del Paine: up 4,000 feet of rocks, over 10 hours. This place is a famous photo op: rocky terrain, lovely lake, fed by Torres glacier, and towers — straight up that make for a great backdrop.
For this hike were up at 6 a.m. In two hours we reached the Chilean Refuge then up along the edge of a deep gorge — the Rio Ascencio. We had great weather for this hike. Above the tree line it was all rock. Some big boulders but mostly the smaller ankle killers— and steep. The three towers came into close view. We circled boulders, a tad of snow and around to the lovely lake view and the three amazing towers. It was stunning.
We ate, soaked up the sun and took pictures. For most of the gals, the hard part was over and the walk down was to be enjoyed. For me, the descent was agony. My right knee was intent on making a point (by the end of the year, I had a new knee). Dinner and bed were welcome. But not without first enjoying the stars — close enough to pluck!
The next day the winds were 75 mph. Our little domes shuddered in the gusts. Activities were cancelled and we could eat and chat and gaze out the huge window of the dining hall. We drank and laughed harder than I’d ever laughed before.
The last day: Pablo packed up bikes. We grabbed helmets and headed out in the van. We were dropped at a high spot by Azur Lake — aptly named — and we rode down to a waterfall, miles below. Along the way, guanacos were plentiful. Some on the road! We picnicked at a lovely spot. I got to watch a rhea. For the first time this trip, we gals were able to drink wine in the sun.
I find it important to say that organized trips like this can be fabulous or mediocre. For me, it’s usually all about the people I’m with and the guides. I’m so glad I did this one.