On appearance alone, a loaf of sourdough can elevate bread into artform. Beautifully scored designs of leaves and hearts and swirls allow the breadmaker to bring even more to the bake.
The loaf’s main cut results in the sought-after “sourdough ear,” and has both an aesthetic and functional purpose.
“It’s for the steam to escape,” said Cally Roberts, owner of Salt & Fern Bakehaus. “So, if you don’t score anything and you just put a plain loaf in the oven, that’s going to expand wherever it wants to. By doing a cut, you’re giving it space to decide to expand this way versus straight through the top and just burst.”
A cottage food producer, Roberts bakes an assortment of sourdough loaves and other goods, offering pickup from their North Mankato home. Roberts also attends Mankato Makerspace market events, selling out of items in advance of closing time. The resounding interest has been validating for Roberts, especially as their business began only last year.
As the purpose of the loaf score is twofold, Roberts sees baking bread as more than filling bellies — it’s also a way to be community forward and connect people to a soil-to-plate relationship with their food.
Even including “Bakehaus” in their business’ name is more than a nod to Roberts’ German roots. It’s also purposeful verbiage to welcome others. “This is somewhere people can come to feel safe and fed, and hopefully leave a little warmer than they arrived.”
Roberts received a bachelor of science degree in food systems (consumers and markets track) from the University of Minnesota’s College of Food, Agricultural and Natural Resources Sciences. They noted because of the way the system is built, people have a need for fast and convenient options.
“But our bodies don’t. And I think that, by being disconnected from our food system, we disconnect from our bodies further,” they said. “I believe that when the people have the means of production for the food system back in their hands, we will start to see less health issues.”
From beginning to end, sourdough is a three-day process for Roberts. “It’s a slow ferment.”
This longer timeframe produces a product that differs from grocery store fare. While Roberts utilizes a 5-year-old sourdough starter, she said most non-artisanal sourdough is going to have commercial yeast mixed into it to quicken the rise, with the flavor added in at the end.
And in comparison to other breads, Roberts explained, sourdough has an entirely different texture. “It’s more of like a chew rather than a tear.”
Noting anything with limited ingredients is going to be easier on systems to digest, Roberts’ standard sourdough is made with bread flour, whole wheat flour, salt and water. They explained customers may see a difference in toasting time, as sourdough has less sugar, which results in slowing the Maillard reaction. Roberts said the lower amount of sugar makes sourdough slightly safer for diabetic people compared to white bread.
Looking back, Roberts said she can remember a time when she craved flavor, life and humanity in her food. She first made a pear pie with her sister at about age 10.
“And it changed my life that I had the access to make something that was so expensive, so pretty right in my kitchen.”
She kept at it, recalling a mishap of shredding her hand while making a carrot cake. “But who doesn’t on their first carrot cake, you know?”
At 19, Roberts met her birth mom for the first time, both arriving unbeknownst to the other with a plate of baked goods.
“It was really funny, really cool. It was really validating,” noting her birth mom is a vibrant, talented baker.
Customer Dinah Langsjøen describes Roberts’ sourdough as “a showstopper” to bring to gatherings. She noted the level of love and self that goes into a craft.
“I’m an artist and I really vibe with other artists, and that’s exactly what I consider Cally,” she said.
Langsjøen especially enjoys the inclusion loaves, which incorporate additional ingredients such as garlic, onion and rosemary as well as cinnamon and raisin.
“I’ve actually developed a little bit more fondness toward making my own meals instead of just slapping a couple pieces of bread together with a piece of cheese, etc.,” Langsjøen said, likening the process of adding spicy jellies or making a panini to a classy cafe or bed-and-breakfast experience within her own home.
Many of those inclusion loaf ingredients, as well as what Roberts includes in focaccia, are grown right in their garden. “If I really want to make good food, that good food is going to come from good ingredients. If I can grow it, I’m going to.”
Other Salt & Fern offerings include cinnamon and spice rolls with a lemon glaze, salted brown butter chocolate chip cookies and salted ganache brownies. In addition, Roberts does custom orders. Her sourdough subscription gives customers a discounted price, and she has plans to offer different items as the seasons change, such as strawberry cinnamon sourdough.
Because Roberts loves to encourage others that they, too, are capable of learning the skill, sourdough starter also can be purchased.
“Give the means of production to the people. Good, make it. Talk to me if you have questions. I just want more people to feel more connected.”
Orders can be made through the link: bakesy.shop/b/salt-fern-bakehaus. The typical turnaround for most items is three days, but providing four is especially helpful. Salt & Fern Bakehaus also provides updates and information on Facebook and Instagram.