A Greek soup called avgolemono gets its name from the egg-lemon mixture that is used to thicken the broth. Some versions are simply broth that’s thickened and seasoned. Others are more substantial and include rice and chicken. To boost the flavor of store-bought chicken broth, the cooks at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street poach bone-in chicken breasts in it. Then they shred the meat and add it to the soup just before serving. Grated carrots lend sweetness and color, while lemon zest deepens the citrus notes. This Greek soup gets its name, avgolemono, from the egg-lemon mixture used to thicken the broth. Some versions are simply broth that’s thickened and seasoned, while others are more substantial and include rice and chicken. We prefer the latter.
In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we poach bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts in store-bought broth to give it a rich body and flavor. The bones and skin are removed and the meat is shredded and added to the soup just before serving. Grated carrots lend sweetness and color, while lemon zest deepens the citrus notes.
The rice is simmered directly in the broth, infusing it with savory flavor. The yolk in the egg-lemon mixture coagulates as it hits the hot liquid, thickening the broth and giving it a velvety texture.
To prevent the eggs from curdling, keep these tips in mind: Temper the eggs first by slowly adding a small amount of the hot broth to the bowl before whisking the mixture into the pan. And after adding the mixture, don’t let the soup reach a boil or even a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve with fresh herbs, such as dill or chives.
Greek Egg-Lemon Soup (Avgolemono)
Start to finish: 45 minutes (20 minutes active)
Servings: 4
1 quart low-sodium chicken broth
12-ounce bone-in, skin-on chicken breast, halved crosswise
Three 2-inch strips lemon zest, plus 3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 medium carrots, peeled and shredded on the large holes of a box grater
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
¾ cup long-grain white rice, rinsed and drained
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
3 large eggs
In a large saucepan, combine the broth, chicken, 2 cups water, the lemon zest strips, carrots and onion. Bring to a simmer over medium-high, then reduce to low, cover and cook until the thickest part of the chicken reaches 160°F, 15 to 18 minutes.
Using tongs, remove and discard the zest strips; transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside. Return the broth to a simmer over medium, then stir in the rice, ¾ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Reduce to low, cover and cook, stirring once halfway through, until the rice is tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, remove and discard the skin and bones from the chicken and shred the meat; set aside.
When the rice is done, remove the pan from the heat and uncover. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and lemon juice. While whisking constantly, slowly ladle about 1 cup of the hot rice-broth mixture into the egg mixture, then slowly whisk this mixture into the pan. Stir in the shredded chicken.
Return the pan to low and cook, stirring constantly, until the soup is warm and lightly thickened, 2 to 4 minutes; do not allow the soup to simmer. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper.
Optional garnish: Chopped fresh dill OR chives